I have not bought into all this face mask wearing for viruses and what government is forcing upon you. In fact I can not think of a more incompetent group of persons to manage the well being of our citizens.
Watch this and get again informed and make your own decision but I bet you won’t have a mask on after it. I have found that the virus is 100nM in size and so no mask like that is going to stop anything like that. That means 100 X 10^-9 Meters in size. They are as good as a screen door in a submarine.
I am amazed that a lot of the clients I talk to do not or have not ever heard of Dr. Steven Greer. He is trying to bring out the truth that the Government and the Military have been trying to hide all these years from the 40’s. There are so many people that watch the sheeple news media that are really full of crap that is about garbage that does not matter. I don’t waste my time on that stuff. Anyway a new movie is about to come out that furthers the education of the public on the connection possible to those that have been here for years but have known we were not ready yet. People who are informed will know something about this.
Some people have called and asked to get my address to drop off a unit or to ship them to me. Well here is that info-
Skywave Tape Deck Repair 617 McLean Ave.
Bensenville, IL 60106
E mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
For those looking to drop off units, I am at the SW corner of O’Hare Airport not far from Route 83 and 1/2 mile South of Irving Park Road(Rt 19). I am here most of the time but if you are dropping off it is best to let me know when you plan to arrive.
If you have questions, my Cell phone is 708-334-2260.
Google phone if I am at the Bench 2 is 630-448-2513
Today I get a second or third call from 800-334-7661 with caller ID as Com Ed. I end up talking to Shirley Brown a fake name I am sure as she has an accent. Then they try and talk you into changing your lower cost electrical supplier for theirs as they tell you $.0849/KWHr is their rate and that they will remove delivery charges and that from my bill. Since when does a power company call you to charge you less money? Then when I get to the verification department I talk to Steve Shaw and when asked what company he is with he then says Inspire Energy. So they are basically trying to slam my account with a $ .0849/KWHr from my $.0649KWHr and trying to make you think it is Com Ed doing this by using their name and phone number. This is fraud and at best deceptive practices. I have a good mind to make a complaint to the state so that they lose their license to do anything in IL. When foreign voices call you to make you change an account, know that it is most likely fraud and they may even be calling you from India or another country.
I don’t know why but there are a small group of people that bring me equipment and have it repaired and then never come pick them up regardless of how many times I call or E mail them. They after 2 years make it clear that they do not want the unit anymore.
First up is a Tascam 414 Mk II unit just checked out on the bench and comes with power supply and a New Maxell XL II C-90 tape.
Asking $200 with a 6 month warranty as usual. Other offers considered. Other pictures available from E mail.
I am just letting some of the DIY repair people that often ask me where to get alignment tapes or speed tapes. These are the correctly made tapes made in a real professional manner and so in that case I can only recommend this source as a way to get a tape. They will not be cheap but when no other source is available- they are all expensive tapes, then at least to have a person who makes good fresh tapes it is of utmost importance.
I could go on about defunding the Police like some places intend to do but this time I was lead to this guy making his own tape demagnetizer. Why do people of such rudimentary knowledge try to make out that he know something when they clearly show that they are surely lacking.
You should do all degaussing as it is really called with any deck turned off otherwise you will blow out the head preamps. How do I know this? I have had to fix the units that people did this to over the years and they know afterwards that they made a mistake NOT reading the instructions. Now this guy does it on his video- that little amount of magnetism from that screw will do nothing for you as it is too weak not to mention the whole idea of demagnetizing a head is unnecessary anyway. Have you ever measured the residual magnetism at a head before and after using a real degausser? If so you will find out that the reading is the same as I found out.
The fact is if someone is telling you to do something on You Tube you can guess with pretty good certainty that it is wrong- that much is true as I have watched too many of these experts call the items by the wrong terms, do things that are completely wrong. I should know.
I have been told and saw adds on E bay that people do repair work on decks. This one guy out of Shaumburg IL. did full Pioneer recaps on decks but I ask- Is he a real Technician or a parts changer. Well the last couple of days I have been looking over a deck he serviced. Well the Tension arms were not touched and were way too loose, the microswitches that fail often were not changed. The low speed on the deck has a wow and flutter at around .5%. The High speed was good at around .o5%. This .5% W&F was found out to be caused by a broken foil due to aggressive removal of the other cap on the servo board. It really does not matter if he used Gold colored cap on a board if they in fact are not connected. Doesn’t he check his work in the function of the deck? I guess not. .5% wow and flutter is very easy to hear.
After the correction I made the w&F is down to .06%. When I took the 4 screws out of the power supply to check the work, the board fell free off the decks so not only were the wrong screws used to screw the power supply to the front plate but the screws for the PCB to the hinged frame were never put back. I bet he has lots of screws all over his bench extra- but wouldn’t you prefer that all the right screws went back in? The Belt was a very loose 15″ size so that and lubrication were not addressed. So you want to pay $750 to have a guy recap your deck and then pay another guy $300 or more to fix his mistakes? Why doesn’t he do the whole job for that? This is the third customer that I have had that contacted me with a non-working deck after these characters do this recap job. There is a reason we are suppose to check the deck previous to letting it go out the door and sloppy work just makes the job not one to consider. You decide what chances you want to take as this kind of work to me is preposterous.
I continue to find more damage circuit wise as I proceed and I can say that this guy is a butcher to these otherwise fine decks- 6 torn up foils found so far and some on the power supply are missing and the wires bent through the holes where foil patterns used to be.
I have had a few units come in to me for evaluation when they did not work right according to the sale description that they were restored. HA!
Not only did the unit I looked at was clearly untouched service wise but the reel table was pushed in- not by shipping, and all kinds of other signs were clear that this was a total fraud case- it came from NY. I name names but I did not gain this information.
If a unit is described as Restored keep in mind that Restored is a level ABOVE repaired. It means all new belts and rubber, new neoprene bumpers, new Electrolytic caps throughout and then aligned and calibrated with some level of heads that are not at their end of life. This was the complete opposite of the deck I inspected and this was clearly a fraud case so I told the client to send it back.
Restored units should have a warranty, it should say who the Technician was that did the work in order to validate the claim and it should relate what was done to it. It should list what tape was used to calibrate the deck and a length or warranty of the work done. My 6 month warranties are transferable. The guy who got ripped off ended up buying a deck from me and the one I sold him was restored with a warranty and calibrated to MDS36 tape. The speed was correct as well as I change the motor pulleys with a modified one when the specs demand it. This one did. It had a complete Electrolytic recap. Heads had about 300 hours on them so they were just past broken in. It had real wood panels on the sides and feet.
The deck the guy bought as restored had red screws in the bottom and NO feet! Beware there are a lot of crooks out there and E bay is full of them.
Why would anyone use a 40 year old capacitor in a Sony deck when the one they are replacing failed already? I have seen this done and indicates the person working on the deck does not have experience with these caps.
Put a film cap in that is new. Same goes for the X1000R speed and reel size switches. Don’t put in the same switch some guy pulled out of an old deck to sell you only to have the break like they usually do. These are known weak parts and the latching ramps break off. Put a new switch in that is known to work and is newly made in this year.
I have them for $12 per pair with $8.30 postage in the USA. Higher to other places. If you buy in quantity, I will drop the price further to service people. There is no reason to pay $20 or more per switch from the guy on E bay as he is ripping you off. He pays no where near $20 each probably less than $1.00. I have them ready to ship and I have actually put these switches in a unit and they work fine.
You may also be interested in the post I made with regard to a speed accuracy modification for this model. It can also be applied to X10R, X20R and similar transports. It may even be possible to use it on the X2000R.
I am often asked what book do I read to tell me how to take this mechanism apart in order to fix it like a Technician?
The answer is there is no such book. Decks of different models are built in different ways and if you are an expert in Teac decks this does not make you an expert in Pioneer decks or Otari. They are all designed with a like need and function but using different parts and structures.
So a person asked me how to take a X1000R pinch roller linkage apart. I basically told him the basic steps. It does not mean that every detail is included in that small list of instructions. Where does all the detail come from then? It is a thing called experience. Experience and know-how is developed over time on a bench when you work on 20-50 decks of different types. Once you work on 100 to 200 you will have a higher confidence level than a beginner as you know something about the subject but not all. Then there is reliance on other Technicians. If I after 45 years come across a deck I have never worked on like a Revox or Technics, I contact one of the guys that work on them all the time. Leon or Marc will then tell me what they know and maybe some things they have come across that I might encounter. People contact me all the time about Teac and Tascam decks and I help them. To become proficient in tape deck repair as I tell people I am training or helping to start out, is that you take in everything you can and use those to sharpen your mind as to what you will need to repair decks. The issue is that if you take in some real junk then you will work through all the problems which could take a long time but when done you will have gone through the first course of deck repair and will have accomplished something. Even if the deck has Idlers and goofy design if you are able to make it work at least somewhat well you will have overcome many obstacles in that mechanism and then when you work on a better and more properly designed product then you will appreciate how well some things are made. At a later time you can define what you want to work on and then get away from junk like Akai decks that have no heads possible for replacements. This is why I don’t take them in anymore.
There is no magic wand to fix these- or what the magic wand actually is- is hard work and applying yourself to the task at hand and learn what you need to know as you make your journey from startup to seasoned Technician. No one starts out at the Admiral level you need to start out at seaman level first and make your way up the ladder to higher levels- ask questions and use logic in your decision as well as some common sense. Do NOT think that changing boards is the magic answer as most the time it results in further problems to solve rather than an easy fix. If you have questions I can answer some here.
With this mod, it is possible to get all speeds to within 2 Hz of the desired 3000Hz setting making the deck a truely correct speed running machine- No Question!
For a time now I have been fighting with some units speed wise where the forward direction is set a 3004Hz and then the reverse direction come in at 3035Hz. Well there is only one adjustment and it is wrong to place the forward speed at less than 3000Hz due to the human ear hears slower better than a faster speed. So I said one day a guy will figure out a mod to fix this- why does it always end up being me?
Well now a mod is designed that takes a signal off the reversing solenoid ground path to switch a relay so that when reverse mode is had the speed is adjustable to exact values by a 10 turn trimmers. In doing this you also need to provide the forward trimmers which are also improved from the single turn pots they used on the servo card. Now for both directions and speeds we have exact speed setting so that Musicians with perfect pitch do not have to suffer due to this design error.
I have to say that a few clients that had decks here requested that I include this mod in their unit and yes it is more work but when I adjust the speeds in each direction and you can get the speed ever so close to the exact speed it should be- those 10 turn trimmers are a pleasure to work with.