I get phone calls from people that tell me they changed a fuse, it burned out again and then as they burn out the third one the deck goes further and further into disrepair. First fuses are not a method of repair- they are a safety device to keep from overloaded circuit to catch fire or to lessen damage.
The guy who blows out three fuses or more is just sending his equipment further and further into higher cost as he is then doing more damage as each fuse burns out. Don’t you see the futility in all this fuse replacing? If a fuse blows out that is an indication that there is a fault and a meter needs to come out and troubleshooting done to correct the problem. Additional fuses is just the sign of a person not knowing what they are doing and I could say more but would offend some people.
A question I get from many DIY repair people. I don’t hide my findings and advise people to the best products I have found. One of them is this AMS oil product that is outstanding. If you use WD40 or a low grade oil then don’t blame me for bad performance as I have told you what is best. It gives specs better than the new deck specs. .02%wrms JIS was measured on a A2000R the first time I used it and that is a model previous to the A2300S. I now use AMS oil exclusively on my shop benches as it is the best!
I know I can be negative at times but when I find a supplier that goes beyond the call of duty I mention that too.
That is Stereomanuals.com
Well the deed has been done. If you need a Tascam 58OB manual contact Rick at Stereomanuals.com as I just got my two copies and they are outstanding in quality and clarity.
Every page straight and without marks you get from other places plus you can read all the boards and schematics.
This is the only place to get correct and well made manuals. http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/tascam/index.htm
I am in communication with certain people who are often E bay sellers and sellers of Reel Decks on other sites. One guy told me that 99% of reel to reel users do not know the machine they are buying is bad and so that gives him the go ahead to not adjust them correctly. Another guy who I asked what do you check the speed with as in test tape and measuring device? He answered it sounds good to me!
People are buying decks at higher prices and getting equipment with the most minimum of service done to them as well as them being off speed and who knows what they calibrate them to. All these people would be classified as Hacks by the good Technicians that exist out there. These are the Knuckleheads that you are being ripped off by as the decks are not even close to correct. I am writing this to make you aware of this prevailing mindset in the used equipment sales of Reel to Reel and Cassette decks. I never knew it was this bad and I do not intend to overlook the stuff I see. You can also tell how well the machine is worked on by asking what length warranty they have if any.
For those who own this machine there is a weak part in it called S301 which is the solenoid ALPs direction switch. Once this starts to go bad you can try and spray it with Deoxit but that might not even work given the tiny and poorly made switch design. The correct answer is to put a properly designed switch in by Kurt Jacobs which is sold on E bay. This fellow has done some homework and has made a correctly made part that should have been put in the deck of this price in the first place. Ebay Item# 153025190388
I, as a past Teac Lead Technician recommend this part!
For those that are not informed and have no way to measure wow and flutter as well as phase shift with a scope, I am posting this so that you DO NOT waste your money on this garbage.
I finally tested a set here and had to wonder what was the problem with the freshly oiled and belted deck and it was the Pinch Rollers. These Pinch roller push ons are a bad attempt to make a product but if they did any testing they would find that they exhibit cyclic wow and flutter rising to .14% and that they are not very precise in that the azimuth sine wave shifts consistently at least 90 degrees each way. This is ridiculous that these are still being sold. I looked on Amazon and there are two 5 star rating reviews.
In putting on another pair of old rollers I had here the wow and flutter went down to .040% wrms and stayed there.
This is another rip off product to be sold to those that do not know better- my results have been confirmed by two other Technicians.
Also be aware that this same idea is being sold for Tascam cassette decks and the more expensive Open reels. No matter what the product is, the push on rubber is crap and you will NOT get good service from it. The only way to fix a Pinch Roller is to send it to Terry Witt in Sparta Michigan. This is what the professionals do. Don’t let these numbskull’s take advantage of you!
For those of you with expensive portable equipment or even flashlight like Mag-lites. One of the worse things you can put into a device is an Alkaline battery. They are destructive and leak every time. They could be considered hazardous material the way they destroy electronics by their leaking and corrosive fluids. I am surprised that the EPA has not outlawed these terrible junk batteries and there are many better choices that will cost you less in the long run. I suggest you get Tenergy NMH or Nickel Metal Hydride batteries that may cost more initially but when you can use them 1000 times there is not a lot to figure out that they are worth a pile of money saved. I even have some AA cells from 2001 that still work. The important part though is that the DO NOT LEAK. Abandon the purchase of junk Alkaline batteries, save money and your equipment too. Head over to All-battery and buy the Tenergy product like I do and no more trouble. No I do not own or work at ALL-battery. I just have had very good luck buying their product and not one failure yet- 9V all the way to AAA and they have rechargeable 123A batteries too. Here is to make it easy for you-
It is a very good chance that this deck will become a part unit with that kind of damage.
These items listed here are ready to be sold. Not every one will be a Mint as these are older units and often times rescued from adverse locations. Many of them are very acceptable and the pictures here are of the actual units. More units will come available as they are finished.
Restoration just finished. Set up for TDK D, Maxell XL II and Sony XR Metal tapes. Speed at 3004Hz and wow and flutter measured at .026%. Capstan motor recapped.
Over the last 45 years of service in the Electronics Industry, I have worked on anything from Coffee Pots, Rice cookers, VCR’s, Camcorders, Digital Betacam, and then Transmitters in the AM and FM Radio business. There is a lot to see. But in working on consumer tape decks and amplifiers there are a few things that stick out for anyone wishing to repair electronics should watch out for.
They can be things like poor wave soldering of the boards. There is so little solder on these parts that the smallest bump or vibration will cause a failure of that circuit. Multiply this by 100- 200 joints in a machine and you have a real good chance that it will need repair sooner rather than later. Other things that can break weak joints are conditions of thermal cycling. Does the part have a heat sink on it or does it get hot? Well so does the joint. So many cycles will make the solder joint weak and it was develop a ring around the part lead and again an intermittent connection or break. Corrections done by a good Technician who knows how to solder using Kester 44 (Lead) solder will do wonders for the longevity of the unit.
That is not the only thing that causes failure. There is the infamous 10 V Electrolytic capacitor. These 10 V types have proven a very high failure part so that I often tell others that I am allergic to 10 V caps. Many a tape deck or other equipment that have this part are on borrowed time from when they are made. I just was working on a Teac Z6000 tape deck. Playback was lost on the left channel. Further examination indicated that the coupling cap was defective and must have had a bad connection inside. What value was it? 220uFd/ 10V. Not the type of part I would expect in a $1500 tape deck. Don’t feel bad Teac, Revox and Uher have their Frako caps too. They are notorious for shorting.
OK, Now for the X series tape decks from Teac. Some think that having dual capstan drive is a plus. Technicians can tell you what a headache they can be. There is sensitivity to belt length, belt position, how clean the pinch rollers are and dirt on the capstan shaft. However, what causes me to write this is that I have also found the the two conditions that are seen are either Skew or tape looping. Looping is when the tape comes away from the heads making a perfect loop down below them. This is most likely caused by a loose belt. Most all X series need a 16.8″ belt but some sell 17″ belts that are near the limit to not use them. They sometimes do not work and if they do only for 6 month. Marrs has the good belts at 16.8″ X .330″ wide.
Next there is Skew. This is when the tape travels off the straight path at the pinch roller. I have determined recently that some genius adjusted the head position on the head block so that they are tilted and THIS make the tape skew. Of course the machine never works like they adjust them. Just go turning all the head screw and you are sure to make the deck better- Yes after about $160 of Technicians work. Rule is don’t touch these screws you need a lot to put them back into position.. Please,I have more than enough work already.
The best Service Manuals come from Stereomanuals.com . If I do not have one I need that is where I get them!
In Canada, A new site for service in your area may be this one here. http://reeltoreeltech.com/
I am now at the point that I am taking orders for the gear that so many service shops and people need to fix their blinking transport lights problem. Teac does not have this part any more but I have had them made up. They are $30 plus the postage- I will not ship in a flat envelope like the $80 guy does on E bay. What does it look like-This is a Resin cast gear as were the original ones. Some call it gear B some Gear C. In the 122 Mk III parts diagram 4 the 4-34 part is what this is and was part number 5801474300 and sub’d to 9278377600.
To obtain one or some, contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org . I take credit cards- MC, Amex, Visa and Discover and can take Paypal as well. The cost of obtaining the gears has gone up slightly so they are $30 each now. Also know that the mechanism must be cleaned and greased prior to use or the same problem can occur. I have never had a new one fail yet. I use Lubriplate 105 to lubricate the mechanism first. Also the contact plate.
Every once in a while I get a guy who complains about the gear price. NO there are no $.33 gears nor $2.00 gears or you would not be contacting me. The gears cost the manufacture near $3000 to set up and make these custom made gears- he dictates the price he wants for them. There is conjecture that I make $20 profit on a gear and I can tell you that is not at all what they cost. There is a guy selling hundreds of gears on E bay who started at $80/gear. He sells them for $39 now. If you want to buy from him to save money then do so. There are a limited number of gears and when they run out that might be it. I use the same gears in repairs and there is no reason I HAVE to sell them. With enough of this aggravation I might not.
As of 1/27/2019 the postage has been increased to $7.90 for flat rate.