I have had a few units come in to me for evaluation when they did not work right according to the sale description that they were restored. HA!
Not only did the unit I looked at was clearly untouched service wise but the reel table was pushed in- not by shipping, and all kinds of other signs were clear that this was a total fraud case- it came from NY. I name names but I did not gain this information.
If a unit is described as Restored keep in mind that Restored is a level ABOVE repaired. It means all new belts and rubber, new neoprene bumpers, new Electrolytic caps throughout and then aligned and calibrated with some level of heads that are not at their end of life. This was the complete opposite of the deck I inspected and this was clearly a fraud case so I told the client to send it back.
Restored units should have a warranty, it should say who the Technician was that did the work in order to validate the claim and it should relate what was done to it. It should list what tape was used to calibrate the deck and a length or warranty of the work done. My 6 month warranties are transferable. The guy who got ripped off ended up buying a deck from me and the one I sold him was restored with a warranty and calibrated to MDS36 tape. The speed was correct as well as I change the motor pulleys with a modified one when the specs demand it. This one did. It had a complete Electrolytic recap. Heads had about 300 hours on them so they were just past broken in. It had real wood panels on the sides and feet.
The deck the guy bought as restored had red screws in the bottom and NO feet! Beware there are a lot of crooks out there and E bay is full of them.
I am often asked what book do I read to tell me how to take this mechanism apart in order to fix it like a Technician?
The answer is there is no such book. Decks of different models are built in different ways and if you are an expert in Teac decks this does not make you an expert in Pioneer decks or Otari. They are all designed with a like need and function but using different parts and structures.
So a person asked me how to take a X1000R pinch roller linkage apart. I basically told him the basic steps. It does not mean that every detail is included in that small list of instructions. Where does all the detail come from then? It is a thing called experience. Experience and know-how is developed over time on a bench when you work on 20-50 decks of different types. Once you work on 100 to 200 you will have a higher confidence level than a beginner as you know something about the subject but not all. Then there is reliance on other Technicians. If I after 45 years come across a deck I have never worked on like a Revox or Technics, I contact one of the guys that work on them all the time. Leon or Marc will then tell me what they know and maybe some things they have come across that I might encounter. People contact me all the time about Teac and Tascam decks and I help them. To become proficient in tape deck repair as I tell people I am training or helping to start out, is that you take in everything you can and use those to sharpen your mind as to what you will need to repair decks. The issue is that if you take in some real junk then you will work through all the problems which could take a long time but when done you will have gone through the first course of deck repair and will have accomplished something. Even if the deck has Idlers and goofy design if you are able to make it work at least somewhat well you will have overcome many obstacles in that mechanism and then when you work on a better and more properly designed product then you will appreciate how well some things are made. At a later time you can define what you want to work on and then get away from junk like Akai decks that have no heads possible for replacements. This is why I don’t take them in anymore.
There is no magic wand to fix these- or what the magic wand actually is- is hard work and applying yourself to the task at hand and learn what you need to know as you make your journey from startup to seasoned Technician. No one starts out at the Admiral level you need to start out at seaman level first and make your way up the ladder to higher levels- ask questions and use logic in your decision as well as some common sense. Do NOT think that changing boards is the magic answer as most the time it results in further problems to solve rather than an easy fix. If you have questions I can answer some here.
A question I get from many DIY repair people. I don’t hide my findings and advise people to the best products I have found. One of them is this AMS oil product that is outstanding. If you use WD40 or a low grade oil then don’t blame me for bad performance as I have told you what is best. It gives specs better than the new deck specs. .02%wrms JIS was measured on a A2000R the first time I used it and that is a model previous to the A2300S. I now use AMS oil exclusively on my shop benches as it is the best!
Well I was contacted some time ago by a person wishing to learn tape deck repair. Well he is doing that and moving right along to a top level Technician.
But there is another aspect of this person which has not been explored- He repairs the dBx units that other guys can’t because as some of you might know all the documents such as service manuals have been burned up. Well you get a guy who is smart enough and that will not stop him. He has already been fixing units sent to him from Greece so he is already pretty well known but I want to be sure that everyone else knows about this. The guy is Gerhard in Florida. Just to make it easy here is his signature-
Vintage Stereo Repair and Restoration
Repairing and restoring analog audio components
Teac, NAD, dbx, Revox, B&O, Pioneer
These detailed items are for those who are technically capable of understanding them and implementing them. The reason is that it is a way to share what is determined, designed or found to need correction on the various models noted. It will allow a technician who works on tape decks to benefit from my observations and design mods to make their repairs better or more accurate.
Do not hesitate to contribute if you have a proven and tested design mod.
I know I can be negative at times but when I find a supplier that goes beyond the call of duty I mention that too.
That is Stereomanuals.com
For those who own this machine there is a weak part in it called S301 which is the solenoid ALPs direction switch. Once this starts to go bad you can try and spray it with Deoxit but that might not even work given the tiny and poorly made switch design. The correct answer is to put a properly designed switch in by Kurt Jacobs which is sold on E bay. This fellow has done some homework and has made a correctly made part that should have been put in the deck of this price in the first place. Ebay Item# 153025190388
I, as a past Teac Lead Technician recommend this part!
I have been told that if you need this part contact Kurt directly and ask him about it- he is the only source for it. email@example.com
For those of you with expensive portable equipment or even flashlight like Mag-lites. One of the worse things you can put into a device is an Alkaline battery. They are destructive and leak every time. They could be considered hazardous material the way they destroy electronics by their leaking and corrosive fluids. I am surprised that the EPA has not outlawed these terrible junk batteries and there are many better choices that will cost you less in the long run. I suggest you get Tenergy NMH or Nickel Metal Hydride batteries that may cost more initially but when you can use them 1000 times there is not a lot to figure out that they are worth a pile of money saved. I even have some AA cells from 2001 that still work. The important part though is that the DO NOT LEAK. Abandon the purchase of junk Alkaline batteries, save money and your equipment too. Head over to All-battery and buy the Tenergy product like I do and no more trouble. No I do not own or work at ALL-battery. I just have had very good luck buying their product and not one failure yet- 9V all the way to AAA and they have rechargeable 123A batteries too. Here is to make it easy for you-
It is a very good chance that this deck will become a part unit with that kind of damage.
These items listed here are ready to be sold. Not every one will be a Mint as these are older units and often times rescued from adverse locations. Many of them are very acceptable and the pictures here are of the actual units. More units will come available as they are finished.
Restoration just finished. Set up for TDK D, Maxell XL II and Sony XR Metal tapes. Speed at 3004Hz and wow and flutter measured at .026%. Capstan motor recapped.
Do you have a Tape deck such as a Cassette or Open Reel that needs to be repaired or calibrated? Well you have come to the right place! I have been doing this work for over 40 years. I was employed at the Teac Factory Service in Arlington Heights and the Sony Factory Service in Niles IL. Neither are open anymore making it difficult to get your equipment repaired until you found me! Well why don’t we get started then? I service Teac/Tascam, Pioneer, Studer, Otari, Sony and Technics machines.
I can be contacted by Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Address info can be found in “Where to Find Me”section http://s609729863.onlinehome.us/where-to-find-me
Phone: (708) 334-2260, Longtime member of Tapeheads.net forum.