There are sites that are now offering MRL and Teac tapes that use their name but in reality they are duplicating their own signals on tape from who knows what kind of machines. This is one example-https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-1-4-7-5-in-s-MRL-Four-Frequency-Calibration-Tape/392363532341?hash=item5b5ab06035:g:XaEAAOSwUPxdQc2f
These are fake and also not accurate and basically they are rip off artist that use reputable names to sell their garbage. Since when does Teac operate an alignment tape facility in Germany? It is all junk waiting to steal your money. Get MRL tape from good dealers like JRF Magnetics or MRL themselves and don’t buy the 4 tone cheaped out tape as this will not be as good as the real thing. I have been using MRL tapes from the late 80’s.
For those who own this machine there is a weak part in it called S301 which is the solenoid ALPs direction switch. Once this starts to go bad you can try and spray it with Deoxit but that might not even work given the tiny and poorly made switch design. The correct answer is to put a properly designed switch in by Kurt Jacobs which is sold on E bay. This fellow has done some homework and has made a correctly made part that should have been put in the deck of this price in the first place. Ebay Item# 153025190388
I, as a past Teac Lead Technician recommend this part!
For those that are not informed and have no way to measure wow and flutter as well as phase shift with a scope, I am posting this so that you DO NOT waste your money on this garbage.
I finally tested a set here and had to wonder what was the problem with the freshly oiled and belted deck and it was the Pinch Rollers. These Pinch roller push ons are a bad attempt to make a product but if they did any testing they would find that they exhibit cyclic wow and flutter rising to .14% and that they are not very precise in that the azimuth sine wave shifts consistently at least 90 degrees each way. This is ridiculous that these are still being sold. I looked on Amazon and there are two 5 star rating reviews.
In putting on another pair of old rollers I had here the wow and flutter went down to .040% wrms and stayed there.
This is another rip off product to be sold to those that do not know better- my results have been confirmed by two other Technicians.
Also be aware that this same idea is being sold for Tascam cassette decks and the more expensive Open reels. No matter what the product is, the push on rubber is crap and you will NOT get good service from it. The only way to fix a Pinch Roller is to send it to Terry Witt in Sparta Michigan. This is what the professionals do. Don’t let these numbskull’s take advantage of you!
I have been working on units a log time and some of the time I get requests for help that I do not have manuals for so over to Hi Fi Engine I went. Most of the time I was able to help the other guy for no cost. Well most recently I was working on a Sony 854-4 where I got the manual from Hi Fi Engine. The schematic is so bad that you can not see what the part numbers are- what idiot scans stuff like this and what further idiot puts in on a site for some poor person to download and try to work with.
Well I made a comment to them about the poor quality and now I am done with their poor scans and idiotic behavior. Why don’t they come up to standards rather then kick people out from downloading their garbage.
No matter, I am not going there anymore and do not suggest to anyone that you do either. If I can not fix a product with all my experience and their blurry manuals what makes you think that a person just starting is going to be able to.
Get all you manuals in paper from Stereomanuals.com
This place will get you a good and clear product. http://www.stereomanuals.com/index.htm
I am now at the point that I am taking orders for the gear that so many service shops and people need to fix their blinking transport lights problem. Teac does not have this part any more but I have had them made up. They are $30 plus the postage- I will not ship in a flat envelope like the $80 guy does on E bay. What does it look like-This is a Resin cast gear as were the original ones. Some call it gear B some Gear C. In the 122 Mk III parts diagram 4 the 4-34 part is what this is and was part number 5801474300 and sub’d to 9278377600.
To obtain one or some, contact me at email@example.com . I take credit cards- MC, Amex, Visa and Discover and can take Paypal as well. The cost of obtaining the gears has gone up slightly so they are $30 each now. Also know that the mechanism must be cleaned and greased prior to use or the same problem can occur. I have never had a new one fail yet. I use Lubriplate 105 to lubricate the mechanism first. Also the contact plate.
Every once in a while I get a guy who complains about the gear price. NO there are no $.33 gears nor $2.00 gears or you would not be contacting me. The gears cost the manufacture near $3000 to set up and make these custom made gears- he dictates the price he wants for them. There is conjecture that I make $20 profit on a gear and I can tell you that is not at all what they cost. There is a guy selling hundreds of gears on E bay who started at $80/gear. He sells them for $39 now. If you want to buy from him to save money then do so. There are a limited number of gears and when they run out that might be it. I use the same gears in repairs and there is no reason I HAVE to sell them. With enough of this aggravation I might not.
As of 1/27/2020 the postage has been increased to $8.30 for flat rate.